Dawn's Costume Guide


Commercial Costume Patterns

Simplicity | Index | Butterick
Where to buy the patterns


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McCall's

Patterns

NOTES:

These patterns are no longer available for retail sale. You *might* be able to buy remaindered stock by contacting the manufacturer directly. Otherwise, you'll have to scour thrift shops and Ebay for old copies.

2242 and 2243


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Renaissance Revival. Ladies sizes 4-18. Another basic chemise pattern which could stand to be lengthened to the knees or longer. What's nice about this pattern is that the bodice is separate from the skirt, which allows you to make them up for a little more mix-and-match versatility. Lose the headroll, it went out of fashion hundreds ofyears before the dress came into style. There is the ever-popular headpiece made like a sun visor, which might pass in some places but which I think looks awful. The correct shape for the French Hood is flatter and lays back on the head more. The veil is actually a bag or tube that encloses the hair. Look up the Holbein portrait of Catherine Howard, or Moro's portrait of Queen Mary. The skirt is made like mine, from gathered square panels and would be versatile in any costume collection. The sleeves on the fancy dress are not long enough, they should go a good 8 inches below the wrist and fold back to just below the elbow with a rich lining. 2243 was ladies sizes 18-32.

2248


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The Renaissance Man. 15th century. Here we have your basic shirt, belt, hat, leggings, and a straight tunic style vest. The Robin Hood cap is cute, but the false liripipe hat looks a bit silly. The lord's doublet suffers from being neither a houpellande or a pourpoint. The houpellande sleeves would be longer than shown, and the gown would reach to knee or floor length. A pourpoint would be more fitted (but commercial patterns tend to run to the large and shapeless side of fitting) and have straight sleeves. Alter it to one or the other and you'll do much better.

2253


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Revolutionary Ladies. A square bodice and skirt pattern that can also be adapted for Ren-fest wear. Even if all the other patterns aren't sold out you might consider this one, it is identical to #2242 except for the hats, minor sleeve variations at the cuff, and one seam on the bodice. I actually prefer the curved seam on the front of the bodice because it allows for greater shaping and fit. Leave the sleeves and apron off and wear them with a chemise from my pattern. As an example of 18th century clothing it does well enough for working-class garb. Ladies of higher classes wore gowns of a different cut and style.

2258


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Give Me Liberty. 18th century men. Basic lower to middle class working clothes of the period. This set provides a good shirt and breeches pattern that can be used to represent a reasonably wide time span. Leave off the elastic and either fit the pants to you or use a drawstring. Also the perfect set for men to work from when recreating Hobbit costumes.

2383


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Royal Princesses. Matching costumes for little girls and their 18" dolls. Cute, fantasy styled costumes that will probably get your kids interested in dressing up.

2645


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Pretty. Uses lots of fabric, though. This is a "renaissance" styled wedding gown which incorporates several historical styling features with modern fantasy elements. It has several layers, many pieces, and complicated instructions. If you feel up to the effort, the results are stunning.

2663


(formerly 8449)
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A okay set for the kids, if you leave off the apron sewn into the skirt seam. For adults, the underdress looks okay -- be sure to make it all in the same fabric, but leave off the overdress confabulation: it just looks silly.

2664


(formerly 8450)
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This set would be fun for the kids to play dress-up. I don't see that the adult version offers any redeeming features for faire or re-enactment use.

2665


(formerly 8827)
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A poor attempt at combining features of a doublet and houpelande. Fits badly and looks worse. Avoid this one unless it really is the look you want for a fantasy event.

2793


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Elizabethan costumes. Bodice, blouse, skirt, apron and two headpieces. Lengthen the blouse to make yourself a nice chemise. The bodice has a shoulder roll and can be made with an optional slashed sleeve. Save yourself some hassle on the sleeve, instead of sewing the underarm seam, tape the two pattern pieces together before you cut.

2798


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Elizabethan costume. Skirt and bodice with sleeve variations. The skirt and bodice are nice, but the sleeves are a disappointment. View A has capped Victorian sleeves and view B has a weird bag confabulation. Best off avoiding both. The rear-lacing bodice is nice despite the darts, it offers two neckline variations and a "partlet" insert. There is NO CHEMISE included with this pattern. View A can become reasonable Tudor if you cut the front waist straight across and combine the front seams so there is no "princess" line, but the sleeves are still a problem.

2802


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Men's early renaissance costume. Includes surcote, shirt, cap, leggings, and tunic with sleeve options. Nice, simple, basic pieces for the gentleman.

2806


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Early renaissance gown with two neckline variations and two sleeves, a cap and hairnet. NO CHEMISE. I suggest making this one without the attached sleeves and wearing it over a separate chemise or blouse. This pattern uses large skirt panels pleated to the waist, and is (surprise!) not as wasteful of fabric as some other patterns. Also note that the gold under-dress in view A is simply the dress variation shown in view B. If you go for all three layers make one or two of them very light to help you survive the heat.

2814

Court Jester and Bellydancer costumes. First, the Jester: funny short pants, loose overtunic, and the hat. Guys, if you want a particolor tunic for fighting in, leave off the sleeves. The hat is good. I'm not keen on the outfit as a whole. Second, the Bellydancer: harem pants, halter, headscarf, and accent skirt. The halter is not going to offer the kind of support a dancer needs, but most women who dance will know this.

2890


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French Maid, Saloon Girl, etc. combinations for Halloween. Two redeeming features: the under-the-bust bodice popular at renaissance-fantasy fairs, and the "Red Riding Hood" style cape with a hood, which you could lengthen.

2938


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Misses Scottish costume with variations. This pattern includes a modern blouse with trim options, a hat and scarf, two skirt variations, and a "weskit". I don't know what is so hard about calling a bodice a bodice, but pattern companies have gone to great lengths to come up with new names for it. The bodice has tabs ("petals") and makes up kind of blocky, be prepared to take it in if you have an ounce of curve in your body. The skirts are easily made from a single panel gathered into a waistband (no elastic!) with a zipper in back. It'd be easy enough to leave the zipper out and use a hook instead. One of the skirt variations includes a false underskirt sewn into the waistband -- don't bother, just make two skirts.

3053


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Bridal gown and bridesmaids dresses inspired by a couple of recent historical-fantasy movies. Modern, all-in-one gown construction in three variations. Headpieces not included. Gowns include yardage for trains -- you'll want to leave that off unless you enjoy dragging your creation through the dirt. Only three minor inaccuracies, the neckline is a too low in the back for a renaissance gown, the sleeves in view B are fantasy, and the collar on view C is a few hundred years too late for this style. Otherwise, lovely gowns with no darts. A word of caution, do not use lace overlay panels if you want this to be "authentic", as lace wasn't used like that.

3282


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Tudor Rose. Misses gown and headpiece. Modern cut with darts, princess seams and chemise sleeves sewn-in to the gown. Skirt cut from triangle panels. Not a bad place to start.

3286


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Royalty Reigns. Men's Tudor style shirt (modern cut), shaube (coat), pants, flat cap and "tunic". Reasonably nice interpretation of the period even if they are squeamish about including a codpiece.

3663/P306


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Medieval Dress and Cape. Misses princess lined dress with long sleeves, and a sleeved, hooded cape. Pretty, fantasy styled gowns. View C resembles a gown painted in the early 14th century, or would if it had straight, tight fitting sleeves.

3653/P307


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Misses Camelot Costumes. Dress with two fantasy sleeve variations, and a sideless surcote. Both gowns are princess styled, with zippers. I would suggest not making the two-toned variation with gown A, using a single fabric for all the gown body pieces. Gown A makes a great underdress for the surcote if it is made with straight sleeves from piece #7, not the hanging options in this one.

3797


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Maids in the Mist. Three very lovely fantasy gowns, inspired by characters from Star Wars and Lord of the Rings movies. Empire waisted, modern cut gowns with sleeve variations and a vest option. View A is similar to a costume worn by Galadriel in the first LOTR movie, and not a bad choice if you want the dress and need to work from a pattern. Would all be very pretty for fantasy or Renaissance inspired weddings.

3861


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Wedding gown in two variations. Modern fantasy styling, based on medieval elements.

3869

Wedding gown in two variations. Looks really good, if you don't look too close. Renaissance inspired, this fantasy gown has everything: fake princess bodice, ruffled bust inserts, rhinestones, and a zipper. View B without the bust insert has the lines to become a nice gahwazee coat for bellydancing. Otherwise I would only use it for LARP or fantasy theatre costuming where a one-piece costume is an advantage.

3873


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Heaven Sent. Biblical themed tunics and tabards that adapt well for women's chemises. Already gathered at the neck, just gather the wrist the same way and you are all set.

4028


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Long Live the Queen. Bodice top with attached sleeves, skirt, and collar. Tudor bodice and skirt are very similar to #3282 in construction. This pattern offers a sleeve roll, which is a nice period touch, though it's not visible under the collar. The skirt has a sewn-in forepart, which is ok if you can't manage separate skirts for the look, but the bodice front should be the same color as the rest of the bodice, not matching the forepart. The sleeves are pure fantasy and made of 5 sections with sewn-on ribbon. Really a lot of work and nowhere near historical. The collar is the best attempt I've seen so far, but it still misses the mark. If you can make it out of something sheer and use it as a supportasse for a pleated lace veil it'll be about 100% closer to reality. Never mind that the collar and bodice styles are separated in style by 50 years and 5 monarchs. One the plus side, the jewelry and hairstyle shown are pretty much correct for Elizabethan.

4041


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Faire Maidens. Gown, hat and "contrast". Despite being written by people who don't know any of the terms for historical clothing, this is a nice start on a 15th century Flemish gown and hennin. It might have been worn in France, I don't believe the style ever made it to the English court. I'll start by saying the hat is very nice. It can also be worn without the antennas [sic] and still be correct to the period. The body of the gown is generally correct. The front lacing, however, should be much higher and more modest, over the bustline and up to the top of the armpit. Lace it with one ribbon, zig-zagged bottom to top, not like a pair of sneakers. The pattern includes a 'contrast' undergarment which is basically a long dickie. I would skip that nonsense and make a sleeveless undergown using piece 16 for a neckline in place of piece 1. Finally, the sleeves are just wrong. Use a straight sleeve such as in Simplicity 8725 or 9058.

4089


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Dark Maidens. Modern Gothic Fantasy. Empire-waist drawstring necked gown with a vest. Options shown in velvet, and in sheer with a lining. Should be fun at Halloween or for LARP use. The vest has possibilities as a dance top.

4092


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Interview With A Vampire. Men's Fantasy shirt, lined cape, vest, and neck ruffle. Modern cut, perfect for LARP.

4340


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Gothic Goddess. Modern fantasy-styled pricess gown with a hooded robe. The bodice is a separate piece and worn on the outside. Suitable for fantasy or vampire LARP.

4414


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Fit for a Princess. "Inspired by brides from the Restoration Era." A generic late 17th century gown, covering the time period of the Musketeers, most pirate movies, and possibly even that Vermeer movie. Like most modern patterns it falls short of the mark but can be improved by comparing it to period portraits. The lace at the neck looks a little narrow, while the lace on the sleeves looks too wide. I think the sleeves need to be fuller and poofier.The bodice lacks definition and the skirt sags from lack of petticoats. Not a bad place to start, and given the complete lack of other options for this period, you are kind of stuck with it for now.

4627


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Medievaloid robes. A set with a hooded robe, tabard, and cape. Not based on any actual garments, but gives a general medieval impression. A decent starter set for fantasy LARP, the hooded robe is more practical than a cloak. It could be made shorter, without the hood for a tunic. Likewise, put the hood on the cape for a nice warm hooded mantle for cold days.

4863


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Misses' Colonial Costume. *Cough* While early American Colonial was very similar to Elizabethan clothing, this pattern is neither. It's a modern fantasy ren-fest costume with your standard shift, corset and skirt, plus a cute cap (headwear, yay!) and shawl.

4864


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Mens Colonial Costume. See comments for 4863 above. Men's shirt, jacket, pants and cap.

4889


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Misses' Renaissance Costume. A really lovely dress, but having a high waist and back lacing doesn't make it 'renaissance'. Everything about this dress is modern fantasy. Note that the hat in view A is from #4806.

5413


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Tunic, pants, and robe for men and boys. Pure fantasy, suitable for LARP only.

8937


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Medieval Magic. Misses' and Children's sizes. Gown with variations, and two caps. Decent cloak pattern. Watch out the gown sleeves don't end up in the soup. Includes a separate bodice piece which should have a skirt attached to it, to make it a proper gown if you plan to wear this in public.

9426


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Generic 14th century monk. Your basic tunic, tabard, and hood pattern. Doesn't imitate the clothing of any specific religious order of the time and some of the finishing decoration is merely fanciful. However, if you need a pattern for a t-tunic of any style, this works well. Also, the hood makes up quite nice for any sort of costume. Dont pass this one by thinking you have to look like a monk. Make it in different fabrics. Both men and women can wear a tunic and hood.


All text and artwork copyright 1990 - 2001 D. Duperault. Pattern images used on this page belong to their respective manufacturers and are used for review purposes only. NOTHING on this site may be reproduced or distributed by any means without my written permission. This information offered in good faith, and worth only what you paid for it.
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